Board Culture: On Embracing Life by the Waves.
On Embracing Life
by the Waves.
It’s always been something that fascinated me, the life of a surfer. When you grow up in the city, you’re immersed in this fast-paced culture of a constant hustle and a yearning to make big money. The beach has always been a place for you to slow down, after which it’s back to reality. It’s always just been a commercial break, but never the main program. But what if it were?
I watch people around me constantly wanting more out of life. And when life does decide to give them more, it’s still not enough. When I go to the beach, I get acquainted with the locals who have just enough, but are absolutely content with where they are. And you don’t even need to ask them if they are.
You can just see it from the glint in their eyes and the smiles plastered on their faces. And then you look to yourself– how you obsessed for weeks about not having a new swimsuit for a trip just because you wanted to show off on social media. It’s pretty sad when you let that sink in.
You take all this in and suddenly realize the magnificence of surfing. It’s more than just a sport. It’s more than just a past time, or a form of escaping the city. It’s a culture– a lifestyle that when you open yourself up to, you find this whole new appreciation for the mundane. All those superficial things you built your world around become so trivial. You realize that the constant grind is not actually your key to happiness. The actual happiness you seek, comes in the moments you allow yourself to pause.
Surfers are often stereotyped as being too laid back
and are not taking life seriously. But in actuality, they are living their best lives and have found the best versions of themselves through their craft.
Their culture has allowed them to find the genuine happiness that life has to offer. And indeed, happiness
does come in waves. All you need to do, is ride the tide.